What I learned from the Himalayans

Buddhism, Hinduism and Tourism

Kathmandu is a city organized by specialized streets: pharmacies, trek supplies, textile markets, and more. Interestingly, there's even a street with a single fish aquarium, aptly named Aquarium Street. This micro-organization fits seamlessly into the larger city, which is divided into three smaller cities, each with its own focus: Business, Life, and Pleasure.

Hospitality is paramount. Whether you're visiting a rock bar or the 49th best club in the world, the nightlife is unmatched and the locals always greet you with a smile.

The city is periodically affected by earthquakes (approximately every 40 years), and while reconstruction is slow, it is consistent. While many buildings succumb to the quakes, some have withstood them all.

Happy Life, Happy Wife

Despite having little or nothing, the Nepalese people are joyful, always turning negative situations into positive ones. This is a principle that the Tibetans firmly believe in. They hold that if everyone cares for one another, someone will always be there for you. They also strongly believe in the wife being the sturdy pillar of the family, holding it all together.

Repetition is key

From Kathmandu, the capital, to Lukla, the starting point of the EBC trek, we had to use the most dangerous airport in the world. The runway measures 527 m by 30 m and has an 11.7% gradient. The airport's elevation is 2,845 m. The paved asphalt runway is only accessible to helicopters and small, short-takeoff-and-landing aircraft such as the De Havilland Canada DHC-6 Twin Otter, Dornier 228, L-410 Turbolet, and Pilatus PC-6 Turbo Porter. High winds, cloud cover, and changing visibility often result in flight delays or the airport closing, which happens 73% of the time.

So yes, I had to trust this pilot who has flown this specific route four times a day for the past 20 years, with almost no accidents. Repetition, therefore, is key to a successful landing and is a lesson I continuously see in people's success stories. With thorough training come great achievements.

Health First

To undertake this hike, you must be in good physical condition. It demands physical strength and determination to hike for approximately 8 hours a day with a 10kg daypack. Each day involves ascending and descending valleys, facing humidity, rain, and cold. At night, the temperature can drop to -25 degrees. You will sleep in a lodge with no internet or signal, in your three-layered pyjamas, inside a sleeping bag. During the 12-day trek, it is recommended to avoid meat as it may not be well-preserved, which can impact the energy you need for daily hiking.

Dhal Bhat 24 Hour

The mountain people, known as Sherpas, eat the same meal every day, irrespective of the season or occasion. This meal, Dhal Bhat, consists of rice, beans, vegetables, and spices. As a tourist, you can order it any time and get free refills. It pairs well with garlic soup, a natural remedy against altitude sickness, and masala tea or ginger-lemon-honey tea.

Altitude Sickness is Real!

Before this trek, I didn't believe in altitude sickness. However, going from Paris at 35m to Kathmandu at 1400m was a significant change. You will fly from Kathmandu to Lukla at 2,860m, ascend to Everest Base Camp at 5,364m, and then cross the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 at 6,065m and Camp 2 at 6,400m. Your body slowly adapts to the atmospheric changes but the side effects become more pronounced with altitude. Headaches, blurry vision, disorientation, lack of sleep, and frequent nature's calls are common. Above 7000m, it's the death zone, where oxygen is scarce. That’s no joke.

Layering is Key to Fighting Cold

Layering clothes is crucial to stay warm. As you hike to the top of the world, it grows colder outside while you get closer to the sun. So, as you ascend, gradually layer your t-shirt with another, then a long-sleeved shirt, a pullover, a wind jacket, and finally a down jacket. As you ascend and the sun's heat intensifies, remove layers as needed.

Nepali Flat, Little Bit Down, Little Bit Up

Our mountaineer guide, Pemba, briefed us each night about the next day's highlights. As we neared Everest Base Camp, we learned that flat terrains are seldom flat; they always have a bit of ascent and descent. This unpredictability is a metaphor for life, with its ups and downs.

Never Underestimate Nature

Nature is unpredictable and sacred. Some mountains are unconquerable, while others, like Everest, claim many lives. We hiked 20-40km per day for 12 days, passing through two villages and sleeping in one. The vast emptiness was breathtaking, with endless mountain valleys. To date, Everest alone has claimed 322 lives, with an additional 1800 in the surrounding mountains of the Everest Base Camp trek in the Himalayas.

Mind Over Matter

The Nepalese people believe in mind over matter. It's recommended not to smoke at high altitudes, but it's not uncommon. This trek is a test of mental strength and motivation.

At 6400m, Every Breath Counts

At 6400m above sea level, every breath is precious. Tasks that take a few minutes at sea level can take up to an hour. Climbing 800m in one day to reach Namche Bazaar at 3,440m is a challenge, especially after three days of hiking. Altitude sickness starts to kick in, and your body needs rest and acclimatization. As I said, every breath counts.